Frozen Facts: Things I Learned While Living in Finnish Lapland

When I moved to Saariselkä, a small village in Finnish Lapland, I knew I was going somewhere cold.

What I didn't know was how many ordinary things would suddenly become interesting.

Cars plugged into electrical posts, snow that sometimes refused to stick together, reindeer wandering around as if they owned the place, and a sky that looked different every time I turned my head.

I spent several months living and working north of the Arctic Circle, and during that time I learned quite a few things. Some I experienced myself, others I picked up from colleagues and locals, and a few I discovered through reading of a local newspaper.

So here are some of the facts and little surprises that stayed with me.

The Arctic Sky Is Something Else

Let's start with what surprised me the most.

The sky.

I know that doesn't sound particularly exciting. We all have one above our heads.

But I swear, the sky in Lapland was different from anything I'd seen before.

Sometimes I would look in one direction and see this incredibly dark blue. Then I'd turn around, and on the other side everything would be pink, purple, or light blue.

All at the same time.

And for some reason, it always felt like the sky was much lower, almost closer to the ground. I can't really explain that feeling, but I remember it clearly.

One of the most spectacular things was how long the sunrise and sunset colours seemed to last. Back home, I was used to the sun disappearing rather quickly. In Lapland, the colours could stay around for hours. I remember some of those feeling like they lasted two hours.

There is actually an explanation for much of this. At such northern latitudes, the sun stays very low around the horizon during winter. Sunlight passes through a longer stretch of atmosphere, and the combination of scattering, clouds, and reflected light from the snow can produce some extraordinary colours.

As for the sky feeling closer? That's still just how it looked to me.

The winter sun sitting low among the snow-covered trees in Lapland.

The Polar Night Isn't Completely Dark

Before moving to Finland, I thought the polar night meant exactly what it sounded like.

No sun. Complete darkness.

Well, not quite.

The polar night, known as kaamos in Finnish, is the period when the sun doesn't rise above the horizon. But that doesn't mean you spend the entire day in pitch-black darkness.

Around midday, there can still be hours of twilight, with the landscape turning different shades of blue, pink and purple.

Of course, it depends on where you are. Northern Lapland experiences a longer polar night than areas farther south.

And yes, the darkness can feel strange after a while. You go to work when it's dark, finish work when it's dark, and somewhere in between you wonder whether the sun has forgotten about you.

But those colours?

I never got tired of them.

A pale winter sky over the snowy landscape in Lapland.

Winter Has a Few Surprises

Snow Isn't Always Good for Snowballs

Here's something I didn't really think about before moving to Lapland. Not all snow behaves the same way.

In very cold conditions, snow can be so dry and powdery that trying to make a snowball becomes surprisingly difficult. You squeeze it together, open your hands, and it just falls apart. That's because snow grains don't always bond easily when there is very little liquid water between them.

But don't get me wrong. That doesn't mean you can't build anything out of snow in Lapland.

My colleague Peter was incredibly talented at it. He could make snowmen, igloos and even bears out of snow.

Meanwhile, some of us were just trying to get one decent snowball together.

The important thing is that snow changes depending on the temperature, moisture and conditions. Sometimes it's perfect for building things. Other times, not so much.

One of the snow sculptures Peter made in Lapland.

How Cold Can Lapland Actually Get?

I experienced temperatures around −40°C while living in Finland.

And believe me, that's cold enough.

But Finland's official cold record is even more impressive.

On 28 January 1999, the temperature in Pokka, Kittilä, dropped to −51.5°C.

That's the lowest officially recorded temperature in Finland. Now, that doesn't mean you'll experience temperatures like that during an ordinary holiday in Lapland.

Interestingly, northern Europe is also warmer than many other regions at comparable latitudes. Heat transported through the North Atlantic and prevailing air currents help moderate the climate.

Which sounds reassuring until you're standing outside at −30°C wondering why you can't feel your face.

Even Your Phone Hates the Cold

One thing you'll notice in freezing temperatures is how quickly your phone battery will die. The cold affects battery performance, so a phone that normally lasts all day might suddenly become much less reliable.

Keeping it somewhere protected and relatively warm helps.

And if you've just washed your hair, drying it before heading outside is a particularly good idea.

Frozen hair sounds funny until it's your own.

Even the Cars Have to Prepare for Winter

Here's one of the little things that confused me when I first arrived. I kept seeing cars plugged into electrical posts in parking areas.

At first, I didn't really question it, but I remember wondering what everyone was doing.

Were they all driving electric cars?

Not exactly.

Many of those connections preheat combustion engines before starting them in freezing weather. Engine heaters make cold starts easier and can reduce engine wear, fuel consumption and emissions.

Once somebody explains it, it makes perfect sense. But when you first see a typical parking area full of cars plugged into electrical sockets, it looks a little strange.

Winter tyres are another part of everyday life in Finland. Drivers use suitable winter tyres when conditions require them, and studded tyres are common, although they're not the only option.

Buildings also have their own ways of dealing with the cold. Good insulation and mechanical ventilation, sometimes with heat recovery, can keep indoor spaces comfortable and bring in fresh air without relying on open windows.

In some of the places where I stayed, certain windows couldn't be opened at all. That surprised me at first. Then I thought about what winter was like: when it's that cold outside, opening a window just to get some fresh air isn't especially appealing. Sometimes we'd simply open a door for a moment instead.

And summer has its own problem: mosquitoes. Leaving windows wide open doesn't sound quite so inviting then, either. Of course, that's what I noticed in the buildings where I lived—not something I'm claiming about every window in Finland.

It's easy to forget how much preparation goes into making everyday life possible when temperatures stay below freezing for weeks.

Nature Feels Like It Belongs to Everyone

This was another thing I loved about Finland.

The feeling of freedom.

Of course, there are private properties and places you aren't allowed to enter. But during my time in Saariselkä, I often felt that nature was simply there for everyone to enjoy. I could go walking through the forest, explore the surroundings, or head out skiing without feeling that everything was fenced off or restricted.

And there's actually a reason behind that.

Finland has something called Everyone's Rights, or jokaisenoikeudet. These rights generally allow people to walk, ski, and cycle through much of the countryside, even when the land is privately owned, as long as they respect people's privacy and don't cause damage or unnecessary disturbance.

They also allow activities such as picking many wild berries and mushrooms.

But the freedom isn't unlimited.

You can't simply enter somebody's garden, damage the environment, or light a fire wherever you want. National parks and protected areas may also have their own restrictions, particularly concerning camping and fires.

So it's freedom, but with responsibility.

The Little Huts in the Forest

One of my favourite things was discovering the huts and shelters along some of the skiing routes. After skiing for a while, you could stop somewhere in the forest, take a break, and warm yourself up.

Sometimes there were already people there, with a fire going at a designated fireplace. You could sit down, prepare something to eat, or simply rest before continuing.

And what I particularly liked was how well people seemed to take care of these places.

They were shared spaces, available for others to enjoy as well.

Finland has an extensive network of wilderness huts, lean-tos and other outdoor facilities. Many are free to use, although their purpose, availability, and rules differ from place to place.

Some are intended for short breaks, others for overnight stays, and not every shelter has the same facilities.

I just found the whole idea really nice.

You're out in the middle of a snowy forest, you come across a little shelter, and suddenly there's somewhere to rest before heading back into the cold.

It made exploring Lapland even more enjoyable.

Warming up around the fire inside a wooden winter shelter.

Reindeer, Midnight Sun and the Other Side of Lapland

Reindeer Aren't Quite as Wild as They Look

You can't really talk about Lapland without mentioning reindeer.

But here's something worth knowing.

Although they can wander around freely, the reindeer you encounter in Finland's reindeer husbandry area are part of a managed herding system. They aren't simply wild animals with no owners.

I still remember the first time I unexpectedly came across one during an evening walk in the village.

I was genuinely excited.

Later, I saw more reindeer while hiking, and I even remember seeing some wandering across a frozen lake in Inari.

For someone visiting Lapland for the first time, seeing a reindeer just going about its business is pretty cool.

For the people living there, especially those working with reindeer, it's also part of everyday life and an important northern livelihood.

Reindeer husbandry has strong cultural significance for many Sámi communities, although in Finland it isn't an occupation restricted exclusively to Sámi people.

Lapland Isn't Frozen All Year

Most of my memories of Lapland are filled with snow, darkness, and freezing temperatures. But the region changes enormously throughout the year.

During summer, northern Lapland experiences the Midnight Sun, when the sun remains above the horizon even at night. The exact duration depends on how far north you are.

And despite its Arctic reputation, Lapland can have genuinely warm summer days, sometimes exceeding 25°C.

Then there are the mosquitoes.

Apparently, winter isn't the only season that makes you question your decision to go outside.

It's almost difficult to imagine when you've spent months surrounded by snow.

And I think that's one of the most interesting things about Lapland.

It's not simply a place where winter lasts forever. It's a region where the seasons can be dramatically different, each bringing its own peculiarities.

A Little More Than Snow and Reindeer

Before moving to Saariselkä, I knew Finnish Lapland would be cold, snowy, and beautiful.

But I hadn't really thought about the smaller things.

The cars plugged into electrical posts. The colours of the sky during polar night. The little shelters in the forest. Or how normal it eventually felt to be living somewhere north of the Arctic Circle.

Some of these discoveries were useful. Others simply made me stop and think, Wait, really?

And that's what I wanted to share.

Because there's a lot more to Finnish Lapland than snow, reindeer, and the Northern Lights.

Although, to be fair, those are pretty good reasons to visit too.

One last look at the colours of the Lapland sky.